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the forgotten Greek peninsula with alpine treks and sandy beaches – but no tourists

I look at the lush vegetation all around me and pinch myself. I’ve just arrived from the barren, sun-blasted Cyclades and it feels like another country. But no; I’m in Thessaly, Central Greece, where Mount Pelion rises steeply on a peninsula shaped like a fisherman’s hook. Its eastern side faces the vastness of the Aegean, while its western slopes tower over the Pagasitic Gulf, a deep, lake-like bay fringed by beaches.

I knew what to expect for I’d been here before: my father preferred mountain holidays and my mother liked the sea, so Pelion’s combination of alpine treks…

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